Tag Archives: Photography

Equipment Used

I often get asked what I use for lighting and remote triggers, etc. so I thought it would be useful to list it here along with links to where it can be bought.

[The prices and links are valid as of July 2014]


I have 3 of the Yongnuo Flash Speedlite YN-560 II flashguns.

They have more than enough power for studio use. I usually have the keylight in a softbox on half power and shoot at f8 at ISO100.

They are available for £36.39 each from amazon.co.uk
or the newer version (with built-in wireless triggers) are £45 each, also from amazon.co.uk

Radio Triggers

I have 4 of the Yongnuo RF-603 Radio Triggers. Each one can act as either a transmitter or receiver, so you need one more than the number of flashguns you want to trigger.

They are £21 per pair from amazon.co.uk


I have a 120cm/47″ Octagon Softbox with grid
These are currently £45 on eBay.co.uk

I also use 2 rectangular 60x90cm Softboxes with Grids. I got mine for US $43.98 (approx £26) each on eBay.co.uk, but they seem to be currently out of stock. The next best I can find is this one on eBay.co.uk, which is £32 plus £12 postage.

Flash holder/light stand adapter

To attach the softbox and flash to a light stand, I use a Black Adjustable Flash/Shoe/Umbrella Mount/Holder/Bracket. These are £7.28 from the seller ukpartsdeal on eBay.co.uk

Remote Cable Release

To trigger the camera remotely (to avoid camera shake) and also to use for taking time lapse sequences, I use the Yongnuo MC-36 C3 Camera LCD Timer Control Shutter Remote (for 5DII and III, 7D and various others). This is currently £19 on amazon.co.uk

Sharpening – in camera, in ACR or in Photoshop? (plus the benefit of RAW)

For a while now, I have been unhappy with the artifacts created by the sharpening algorithm in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw), so I thought I should do a comparison of the different places where sharpening can be done.

1. If you shoot JPG in-camera (or RAW+JPG), then some sharpening is applied in the JPG by the camera’s processor.

2. If you shoot RAW, then when you first open the image in Adobe’s ACR, there is a tab which allows you to apply sharpening.

3. Once opened in Photoshop, there are several Filters available for sharpening. My normal choice is Unsharp Mask.

To see the results of each, I set my camera to shoot both RAW and JPG at the same time (normally I only shoot RAW).

Sidenote: On this shot, one of the obvious benefits of shooting RAW is apparent: the sky in the JPG is totally blown out and cannot be recovered. However, with the RAW image, a quick tweak of the Highlights slider and a very subtle gradient and the clouds are rescued.

Firstly, the whole image, downsized to 1296 pixels wide (25% of the original).

a) In-camera


b) ACR Sharpening


c) Photoshop’s Unsharp Mask


And now for 100% centre crops to see any artifacts.

a) In-camera


b) ACR Sharpening


c) Photoshop’s Unsharp Mask


What do you think?